We dedicate this post to the Alpujarra of Granada route because, as inferred from the popular name of this historical region, there are two “Alpujarras”: on one hand, the one that extends through the province of Almería and, on the other, the one we are covering in this post. It is perhaps the most famous as it is conceived as an excursion from the city of Granada, and it is also the one that groups the most villages; for that reason, we divide the route into several stages, as it allows for a circular tour over several days. Below, we list those that form part of this first section.
Lanjarón
Considered the gateway to the Alpujarra of Granada route, it is for this very reason one of the most visited in this historical region. Rich in natural waters thanks to its six springs, its great icon is the spa, but it also features a Water Museum and its narrow streets, such as those in the Hondillo neighborhood. These are a preview of what the visitor will find from this village onwards, up the road, such as the tinaos (covered spaces using beams that form semi-private or semi-public areas, often decorated with plants and flowers).
Órgiva
Located on the plain, with better conditions for agriculture and communications, it was designated the ‘capital’ of the Alpujarra of Granada and serves as a local transport hub. Although its houses are of an Alpujarran white, its urban center ‘breathes’ more than that of the other clustered villages in the region, as demonstrated by its imposing Church of the Expectation and the Sástago Palace, now the Town Hall. From here, the route can take two directions, and we will take the most winding, elevated, and beautiful one, towards the most picturesque towns.
Pampaneira
In Pampaneira, we enter the Poqueira Ravine (of which the next two villages are also part) and, already at more than 1,000 meters above sea level, it presents itself as one of the most typical Alpujarran villages for many reasons. For example, its typically Moorish houses, with a Berber appearance, centered around its 16th-century Mudéjar church. It is also notable for the preservation of its traditional craftsmanship, visible in wooden and low-warp looms and in the jarapas (traditional rugs) displayed on the walls. Ceramics are also abundant.
Bubión
We continue in the Poqueira Ravine, and Bubión has an appearance very similar to its immediate neighbors, but an earlier origin (Roman and Visigothic). It has two museums to understand the customs and traditions of the region: the Agriculture Museum and the Alpujarran House Ethnographic Museum, where visitors can immerse themselves in the daily life of the Moorish and non-Moorish inhabitants from centuries ago. An example of popular architecture are the terraos, which are flat roofs covered with launa, a typical clay of the area with a characteristic bluish-gray color (due to the presence of slate in its composition), which facilitated the waterproofing of the roofs, even despite the accumulation of snow.
Capileira
The highest of the villages in the Poqueira Ravine, at more than 1,400 meters above sea level, it is for this reason one of the most authentically preserved. The road ends here, but the more adventurous walkers can continue along the surrounding trails and, from its viewpoints, contemplate the beautiful views of the Sierra Nevada to the north, and the Mediterranean Sea and even the African mountains on clear days to the south. Among the houses, the 16th-century Church of the Virgen de la Cabeza is its most prominent monument, although the charm lies in the steep streets and the popular architecture of the houses—some whitewashed, others in exposed stone, all decorated with flowers.
Upon reaching Capileira, many excursions head back to the provincial capital, but the route through the Alpujarra of Granada can continue towards other iconic villages, such as those we present in the next post of the series.
