When we talk about traditional fashion, the mantilla in Andalusia immediately comes to mind. It is one of the region’s most distinctive garments, a symbol of elegance and good taste. But do you know what it consists of and when it is worn? We answer these and other questions in the following lines.
Origin and distribution of the mantilla
First of all, it should be noted that the mantilla can be found not only in Andalusia, but also in other regions of Spain, such as Aragon and Castile. In fact, its origin is not entirely clear, as it is often identified in ex-votos from Iberian culture, before the Romans arrived on the peninsula. The veil is also an accessory widely used in religious ceremonies, such as the rite of veiling or the veiling Mass.
What is clear, however, is that from at least the 18th century, the mantilla was used in Andalusia and throughout Spain as a symbol of distinction and elegance. One only has to look at famous paintings, such as Goya’s portraits of María Luisa of Parma, in which this Italian-born queen regent wished to pose “in the Spanish style” as a nod to her adopted country.
And although many paintings by Julio Romero de Torres depict young Andalusian women wearing this accessory, the truth is that by the 20th century it had already become largely restricted to the formal occasions listed below—something that remains the case today.
What the mantilla is made of
By mantilla we mean a women’s garment in the form of a mantle that once covered a woman’s head but, over time, has become more of a headpiece, flowing from the head over the shoulders and back. This headpiece is made of lace and sheer fabric, whether with silk threads (a blonda mantilla), chantilly lace or tulle.
However, the mantilla does not hold up on its own: its use is inseparably linked to the peineta, the comb that “lifts” the mantilla above the head. To do so, the woman needs to wear a low bun and, using combs and hairpins, secure the mantilla with great impact and flair, as in some cases the peineta raises the mantilla more than a handspan above the line of the head.
Depending on the occasion and the moment, the mantilla can be left like this, raised with the peineta to show the fabric to best effect, both from behind and from the front. But flowers can also be added on the head and beneath the peineta, such as roses or carnations, giving the ensemble a festive, colourful touch.
When a mantilla is worn (and seen)
Although the mantilla in Andalusia is considered a truly traditional and distinctive garment, it is not always possible to see one in person. Its use has been limited to certain specific occasions—highly significant, but time-bound. Perhaps the best time for this is Holy Week.
More specifically, Maundy Thursday and its processions, when tradition dictates that women dress in black, with a mantilla and peineta in the same colour, to show mourning for the death of the Lord. Likewise, it may also be worn on Good Friday. By contrast, on Easter Sunday, everything changes and turns white, to express joy at Jesus’ triumph over death.
In addition, the other great occasion to see it is at a wedding—more specifically, on the head of the mother of the groom, the only person protocol allows to wear it (unless the bride asks other guests to do so). Finally, it is not uncommon to see mantillas at highly traditional festivities, such as bullfights, or at fashion events that promote it, such as “Sí mantilla” in Seville, held some dates before the April Fair. And why not: you may also consider it a perfect local product to take home as a souvenir.
