Espetos in Malaga are a true hallmark of this province, especially in the coastal municipalities—both in the Costa del Sol and the Axarquía—and, of course, in Malaga city, not forgetting that they can also be found in the neighboring Costa Tropical of Granada. In this post, we provide the keys to this popular and characteristic delicacy so you don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy it during your next trip to Andalusia.
What espetos in Malaga consist of
The name ‘espetos’ refers to a very simple yet no less flavorful dish: grilled sardines, as opposed to pescaíto frito (fried fish). To be cooked, these pieces of fish are skewered on a sharpened wooden cane, with about 6 or 7 sardines per cane, which are then stuck into the sand to stand upright at an optimal distance from the embers.
Therefore, it is a quintessential summer dish, cooked and enjoyed right on the beach, primarily until approximately mid-September. The cooks of this dish are known as espeteros, and they are responsible for arranging all the elements optimally for the preparation of the dish, as well as controlling the cooking process, which usually lasts just over 5 or 6 minutes to reach the perfect point.
Details that make the difference
In addition to their delicious flavor, there is an entire culture surrounding espetos that makes this dish even more special. Therefore, it can be said that every detail makes a difference. For example, the wind direction, which must blow from the sardines toward the embers; otherwise, the fish would be smoked or even burned by the effect of the flame.
The aroma given off by this fish dish is most appetizing, but the characteristic scent of the olive wood used for the embers also mingles in the air. On the other hand, what must not burn is the skewer itself, which is usually made of sugar cane—abundant in the area in the past and, therefore, economical. These canes must be moistened beforehand to prevent them from burning during preparation.
Of course, another element that makes espetos in Malaga unmistakable is the structure used for their preparation: the boat. In addition to creating an iconic and highly attractive image, the choice is related to the health of the espeteros: in the past, espetos were stuck directly into the beach sand, which forced them to bend over continuously during preparation. Thus, they had the idea of filling small boats with sand to cook the espetos while keeping their backs more upright. Furthermore, these boats can be easily tilted, which is ideal for always finding the best wind orientation. Nowadays, in an increasingly sophisticated and professionalized world, ‘faux boats’ are manufactured, raised to the height of the espetero on a rotating pillar.
Finally, a key question is: are espetos eaten with or without lemon? Ultimately, this depends on the individual: they are usually served with a wedge of lemon on the plate, but purists reject it. This became fashionable in the 1960s: with the boom of new tourism, those visitors (largely from Madrid) requested it as an accompaniment because in their places of origin, where the fish was less fresh, it was seasoned with lemon to mask its aroma or taste. This is something that, in theory, should not be necessary with fresh, recently prepared fish enjoyed at a beach bar.
